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Hi, and welcome back to Line Sheet. Gucci!!! Sabato!!! What
a journey. Glad we’ve been on it together.
For our extra-special, First-Day-of-New York-Fashion-Week Inner Circle issue, I dig into what’s really happening behind the scenes at Kering—and LVMH—on the back of this Sabato De Sarno departure news. I also have a fun Vogue scooplet, so many
thoughts (haha, get it?) on the Kate Middleton fashion gag order (thanks to the hosts of Jam Session for bringing it to my attention), and a persuasive argument to prevent L’Oréal from once again trying its hand at ready-to-wear now that designer
Casey Cadwallader is out at Mugler.
Meanwhile, back in New York, last night was fun. I got to hug Maria Cornejo on the 65th floor of Rockefeller Center (thank you, CFDA, for bringing us together), and took a peek inside the new Tao Group–managed Crane Club, where Saks Global’s Marc Metrick and Emily Essner were holding court.
Finally, I landed at Bridges for a Gabby Katz–organized dinner celebrating Aligne, a British label that sells TikTok-viral blazers and is run by Ginny Seymour, who got her start 20 years ago in the executive training program at Saks. (Guests included online stars
Arielle Charnas, Tara Moni, and Jalil Johnson—plus newish, young editors like Marie Claire’s Nikki Ogunnaike. All in all, it was an affiliate marketing platform fantasy come to life.) Today, the shows really got going, starting with Brandon Maxwell and ending with Christopher John Rogers.
🚨🚨Programming note: Tomorrow on
Fashion People, I’m thrilled to welcome podcasters Cynthia True and Dennis Golonka, hosts of Blow-Up: When Liz Tilberis Transformed Bazaar. We discuss life at Harper’s Bazaar in the 1990s, what the modern fashion industry would be like if Liz were still around
(she tragically died of cancer in 1999), and why they wanted to tell her story. Liz and her magazine were a huge inspiration for me growing up—the primary reason I wanted to be a fashion journalist—and I’m grateful to Cynthia and Dennis for sharing so much. I hope you enjoy listening here or
here.
Mentioned in this issue: Sabato De Sarno, Gucci, Kering, Virginie Viard, Chanel, François-Henri Pinault, LVMH, Marco Bizzarri, Hedi Slimane, Alessandro Michele, Bally, Jil Sander, Simone
Bellotti, Delphine Arnault, Dior, Jonathan Anderson, Loewe, Kim Jones, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Marc Jacobs, Saint Laurent, Anna Wintour, L’Oréal, Kate Middleton, Michelle Obama, and many more…
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Three
Things You Should Know…
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- Who should be Vogue’s next guest editor?: I hear that Vogue’s fabulous December 2024 issue, guest-edited by Marc Jacobs, has inspired the brand to make the shtick an annual thing. But as his recent show at the New York Public Library demonstrated, Jacobs is a tough act to follow. Not only was he
deeply...
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The long-expected ouster of Gucci designer Sabato De Sarno has finally come to pass,
albeit somewhat more brutally than anticipated… and without anyone on deck to replace him. Is it Maria Grazia Chiuri’s turn? Hedi Slimane’s? Or is Kering going to surprise us all?
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At around 11 a.m. in Milan on Wednesday, Gucci sent an internal H.R. memo
that a new designer would be joining the studio and reporting to creative director Sabato De Sarno, who was slated to present his next collection in Milan on February 25. But that show—which De Sarno was already pre-casting in New York last weekend—will be his last. A few hours later, around 2 p.m., De Sarno was informed that his brief, slightly
tortured, disappointing, not-even-two-year run at Gucci had come to an end. That news hastily hit the wires first thing the next morning.
Executives uninvolved in the decision were left...
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